I have clients ask me often, what is the number one anti aging product I can use? My first pick is Sunscreen. Why? The sun's harmful UV rays cause the most damage to our cells and DNA which in turn causes premature aging signs like fine lines, and sun spots. Do you find any of the following statements to be true with you?

• I only wear sunscreen when I go to the beach

• My skin doesn’t burn, it only tans so I don’t need it

• I don’t spend a lot of time in the sun, so I don’t need to wear sunscreen.

• I hate sunscreen, it’s so oily and it runs down my eyes, It stinks

You are not alone. According to a 2019 Real Self Sun Safety Report only 1 in 10 Americans wear sunscreen everyday and the top excuses for not wearing sunscreen is not being exposed to the sun enough and having skin that doesn’t burn easily.

Most people have the misconception that we only damage our skin when we get a sunburn. But unfortunately that is not all. Sunburns are just one damaging event that doesn’t only hurt when it occurs but it can have damaging long term effects. Sun damage can occur over time even from incidental sun exposure and wrinkles are not the only side effect.

Skin Cancer is a serious damaging side effect from the sun that can so easily be prevented in most cases. Skin cancer is defined as the uncontrolled growth of abnormal skin cells and it occurs when unrepaired DNA damage to skin cells (usually caused by ultra violet rays from the sun or tanning beds) triggers a mutation, or a genetic defect in the DNA causing skin cells to rapidly multiply and form malignant (cancerous) cells or tumors. There are different levels of skin cancers affecting different layers of the skin. Some are superficial and others are deeper. Note the following types of skin cancer and how exposure to the sun’s UV rays affected it.

Actinic Keratoses: Potential Pre-Cancer: Caused by Chronic Exposure to UV rays found in the Squamous (top layer of the epidermis) layer of the skin. It is typically found in chronically exposed areas of the skin such as the face, lips, scalp, back of hands. They can be slightly elevated, rough, scaly, crusty and can be red or tan, pink or the same color as your surrounding skin. These are commonly treated with topical chemotherapy creams or are burned off by a dermatologist. They can also be treated by estheticians with Microdermabrasion or acid peels if approved by a dermatologist.

Squamous Cell Carcinoma: (also occurs in the top layer of the epidermis) Caused by Cummulative Sun Exposure over a lifetime. This is the second most common type of skin cancer. This is an uncontrolled growth of abnormal squamous cells which if left untreated can be disfiguring and sometimes deadly if allowed to grow. They are most common in areas with frequent sun exposure such as the ears, face, top of scalp, neck, hands, arms and legs. It can appear as a red patch, an open sore,an elevated growth with a central depression, and a wart or horn like growth.

Basal Cell Carcinoma: Occurs in the basal layer (the deepest layer of the epidermis) by a combination of cumulative and intense, occasional sun exposure. Basal cell carcinoma is the most common type if cancer. It is an uncontrolled growth of abnormal basal cells. It can create a tumor and it can grow and also be disfiguring. In rare cases it can spread to other body areas. It can also appear as a red patch, an open sore, a pink growth, a shiny bump or nodule, and it can look like a scar.

Melanoma: Found in the basal layer of the epidermis in the Melanocyte cells. It is caused from intense UV exposure that frequently leads to sunburn. This is the most dangerous form of skin cancer. It can look like a mole or occur within a mole. They can be different colors and shapes. It is almost always curable if caught early, but if it isn’t, it can advance and spread to other parts of the body where it can be harder to treat and can also be fatal. Genetics can also have a role in developing Melanoma.

This is why sunscreen is so important. Even if you are just having normal / incidental sun exposure. Prevention is key. Of course sunscreen is just one of many other ways to prevent intense sun exposure. Other recommendations are:

• Wearing protective clothing

• Wear a wide-brimmed hat

• Apply a chemical free sunscreen with a minimum SPF 30

• Stay in the shade especially between 10am and 2pm

• Avoid sun bathing

• Wear UV blocking sunglasses

• Avoid tanning beds and sun lamps (indoor tanning devices have been classified as “carcinogenic to humans’ by the International Agency for Research on Cancer

• Protect Children from sunburn, the more sunburns they get over their lifetime, the more at risk they will be.

Prevention is the best way to prevent skin cancers from developing. However, if you haven’t been wearing sunscreen on a daily basis, it is very important to check your skin regularly to detect if any abnormalities have developed. Check for any new or changing growths. Schedule an annual checkup with a dermatologist. Also, your esthetician has been trained to detect signs of cancerous abnormalities and can also advise if you should seek the care of a dermatologist. Having regular facials can not only help with beautification of the skin but also they are a good opportunity for your esthetician to keep tabs on abnormal skin growths.

You may be wondering, what is the best sunscreen to use. There are thousands of sunscreen brands out there. Some are sold in drug stores and others are sold in professional settings such as from a licensed esthetician or dermatologist. Here is a link to a consumer research study for a variety of OTC sunscreen brands to help you decide which one is the best for you and your family. https://www.consumersadvocate.org/sunscreen#toc-methodology

My professional recommendation is to use a mineral based sunscreen with ingredients such as zinc and titanium dioxide for their physical properties and lack of chemicals absorbed through the skin. You may also consider avoiding chemical sunscreens for their negative effect on our coral reefs. In my skin care practice, I have 2 different sunscreen brands that I highly recommend.

Clear Choice® Sport Shield SPF 45

High Performance/Age Protectant/Broad Spectrum

Main Ingredient 12% Micronized Zinc

This sunscreen not only protects your skin from the harmful UVA and UVB rays, but it also hydrates and nourishes your skin with ingredients that will protect it with vitamins and antioxidants such as Vitamin C, Vitamin D, Vitamin B12 and B5, Vitamin E, Grapeseed extract, and non comedogenic oils such as Evening Primrose Oil, Sunflower seed Oil, Safflower Seed Oil. It smells great and it is highly moisturizing as well with Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid and Olive Squalane. It is especially great for sports and swimming activities. It does not feel oily and it will not run into your eyes from sweating. It can be used in place of your morning moisturizer as well. It is water and sweat proof for 80 minutes.

Brush On Block® SPF 30

Main Ingredients Titanium Dioxide 15% and Zinc Oxide 12%

Brush on Block® provides protection in a patented, self-dispensing, refillable brush. Available in tinted or non tinted form. It is a high quality milled mineral powder that is brushed on the skin. It can be applied on top of your makeup if you wish. Since it is not a cream, there is no greasiness, it will not sting the eyes, it is water resistant for up to 80 minutes. It also contains nourishing ingredients such as chamomile flower extract, green tea extract, honeysuckle flower extract, jojoba oil and safflower oil. It makes application and reapplication through out the day easy without messing up your makeup. And it can also be used with water activities because it is water resistant for 80 minutes.

If you’re interested in purchasing either of these products, contact me personally or shop online here.

May is Skin Cancer Awareness month and I wanted to bring awareness to this disease. Living in Hawaii, where beach life, surfing and outdoor activities are a daily thing, we should be more aware and protective of our skin. Even if we don’t participate in these outdoor activities we can avoid even those cumulative sun exposure consequences by protecting ourselves every day. Don’t delay, start wearing sunscreen today.

by Stacy Allende

Licensed Esthetician